My Mother’s Voice

Alzheimer’s being the conniving thieving bitch that  it is, my mother wasn’t herself in the final years of her life. The  woman I visited in the Alzheimer’s special care unit was a stranger wearing my mother’s skin but not much else, like the invasion of the body snatchers had taken place, month after month beneath the surface, until one day we looked and the woman we knew was gone, replaced by some alien being. An imposter. Intruder alert. Intruder alert. She died back in 2012. Don’t worry; I won’t be getting maudlin on you.  My real mother–not that stranger in a wheel chair, head nodding on her shoulder–is who I want to think about today.  My real mother —Enid Maude Good nee Hayden, a prim, old-fashioned name, perhaps the only thing about her I didn’t love— was British-born and had a lovely London lilt to her voice her whole life even though she left England in the mid-1950’s. I suppose at thirty, her vocal patterns were already frozen in place.  Sounding like a cross between

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Above Ground on the London Ground—Day 64: The Tower of London

The Tower of London, view from the Thames
image via Wikipedia
If it's Friday we must be back in London. Every Friday I take a virtual walking tour ‘above ground’ on the London Underground. Using my Tube guide & my fitbit® device, my goal is to walk 10,000 steps a day roughly following along the Underground route, reporting back here on Fridays with my findings We've just finished following the Central Line, took a detour to the Tate Britain. This week we're following the  District Line. Here are the previous days. This is Day 64.

The Tower calls. You can take the tube, either the District line (which we're following this week) or the Circle line to the Tower Hill stop. From there it’s a wee walk to the Tower of London. Outside of Buckingham Palace, the tower has to rank as one London’s top tourist attractions. I’m expecting crowds. A crush of people from around the world eager to see the spot where Ann Boleyn was imprisoned and beheaded, the spot which now houses the Crown Jewels. 

Claire Foy as Anne Boleyn in Wolf Hall 
(I covered the series on Chapter1-Take1)

The Tower has a long history, so much of which, despite my British birth, I’m far too clueless about. Luckily for me and my fellow history dummies, a free one hour tour of the Tower is included in the price of your ticket. The tours are led by Yeoman Warders, nicknamed Beefeaters because back in the day they had the privilege of taking their meals and all the beef they could eat from the king’s table. Before your eyes glaze over, I’m told the guides—a select body who have a minimum of 22 years of honorable military service—are a bloody funny lot. 

To be honest, I have a love/hate relationship with tourist attractions like this, historical places with walls that whisper from the past while present day visitors giggle and guffaw as guides do their best to infuse history with humor that appeals to our short attention spans and modern sensibilities. I think the history is fascinating enough in itself without a guide having to resort to the kind of material I used myself as a tour guide at Universal Studios. 

“Anyone from the states?’’ the Yeoman asks his group.
“Yeah, we are’’ a few Americans speak up.
“This could have all been yours’’ the Yeoman quips “if only you’d paid your taxes.’’

Ha ha ha. The group eats it up. Ah well, I suppose a spoonful of sugar helps the medicine go down but I can’t help wishing I could wander around the Tower when no one else was around. I prefer a guided view of the ancient walls un-marred by my fellow visitors from all over their world dressed not in chain mail or doublets and ruffs, waistcoats and breeches but in torn Levis, cargo pants, baseball caps and technicolor Nikes.

Let’s watch and listen in to part of the tour. 
You never know when there’ll be a pop quiz.


There are plenty of these tours on YouTube, notably by Bill Callaghan, and one thing I learned from sampling them is that there IS an audio guide. If the yuks get too much, or you’d rather go it alone, that’s something to think about. 

Here’s a bit of Callaghan’s tour

I haven’t decided whether to move on or stick around the tower next week. I hope you’ll join me wherever I go.

I’m late, I’m late! 
Sorry everyone! I had a power outage yesterday making it impossible to finish posting my weekly contribution to British Isles Friday hosted by Joy Weese Moll. 

Counting the Fitbit steps 

Day 1-63:                                              454,840 steps /197.1 miles  
Day 64: The Tower of London           4,250 steps /1 mile                                                          
Total Imaginary Miles to Date      459,090 steps / 198.1

Connect to Joy’s blog


  1. We skipped this (love/hate relationship with touristy stuff), but I really wanted to see The Royal Mint exhibit due to a fascination with Isaac Newton -- so we may get there next time. I'm thinking that starting early in the morning is the way to go.

    I loved seeing the Tower of London from the boat that we took to Greenwich. The way many people in history, including Isaac Newton, saw it.

    I enjoyed several audio tours while we were in England, some better than others, but often very informative and let us go much more slowly than the average tourist.

    1. Yes! That's the ticket. I'm not by nature an early riser but walks without my fellow tourists clogging the streets sounds good. I lvoe the idea of the boat as well. Same way Anne Boleyn went as well.


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